Ramblin' Dan's

3D Print Design Studio

DSC07770Print Nozzle

One of the critical parts in a FFF 3D printer is the extrusion nozzle. It's that part that lays the rubber on the road. The exact flow of plastic is determined by temperature which affects viscosity, filament feed rate which is pressure, filament size which is volume. Put those factors through an orifice of a specific size (which then is a metering device), the exact flow can be calculated. The nozzle is the orifice but it also determines the initial diameter of the extruded plastic.

Just after leaving the nozzle there are a few more additional variables which are separation distance of the end of the nozzle above the deck or previous layer and the rate of travel of the nozzle following the commands from the computer code. There is also a cooling factor along with departure temperature that that determines how much the plastic will flow or be compressed. Then throw in shrinkage (warping) to keep it interesting.

No, I don't have all the magic setting numbers. The operator (print master) has to understand all these flow variables.

The design of the nozzle is fixed, although it is certainly permissible to experiment with designs and hole sizes. A few more variables to add to the mix.

Here I have taken a closer look at the standard 0.40mm print nozzle under the microscope. The hole is far too small for these 70 year old eyes to see anything unassisted. The hole is just as critical as any of the other factors in the printing formula. It needs to be understood as much as the numbers plugged into the setup.

Sometimes I suspect a partially plugged or damaged nozzle hole to be the answer to of a lot of my "what changed now?" troubleshooting investigations. When all else fails, change the nozzle.

You can see in the pictures I have purchased a package of those 0.40mm "nozzle cleaning" drill bits. Let me be clear on this:

I do not believe in cleaning an old plugged or mal-functioning nozzle. Throw the bad one away and install a new clean nozzle. It's cheap.

I bought the micro bits for gauging the hole size in new nozzles and making sure they are perfectly clear, no burrs. Not for cleaning used nozzles. Also for making these pictures of the process. Spare nozzles should be stored carefully in a very clean place.

The short video shows me prodding the bit through the nozzle hole checking size and clear passage. The video and pictures were made through the USB electronic microscope seen in the pictures.

photo 2017 08 14 04 21 19 PM photo 2017 08 14 05 39 02 PM
 This is one of five spare 0.40mm (0.0157") nozzles I purchased. Note the size and shape of the hole.  This is another nozzle in the package. You can see there are variances in the shape and this one must have had a tiny burr that came off. Probably not a critical flaw.
photo 2017 08 14 04 22 31 PM photo 2017 08 14 04 36 57 PM
 Same nozzle as directly above. Inserting drill from thread end is best  The bottom scale is MM. The top inches. The drill bit is VERY small. 0.40 mm is about 0.016 inches. That's spoken, "sixteen thousandths" 
photo 2017 08 14 04 33 53 PM
 Compare the flat tip surface to the scale marks then judge the size of the hole to the overall width of the flat.  This was taken under the microscope as I tried to judge the fit of the bit in the hole. I think the hole is microns oversize. Ha!

DSC07471Best invention since sliced bread. Ah... Make that …since sliced .stl’s.

I have been wanting to do this since I purchased and assembled this 3D printer. The “standard” method is to use a spool holder that sets next to the printer. It takes up a lot of room and the filament is constantly being pushed back and forth by the “Y” travel of the print head. It works but I never liked that much flexing of the filament.

Read more: Filament Spool Holder

Kossel Heated Bed

DSC07429One of my printers is an Anycubic Kossel A6 Delta. It is definitely a D-I-Y (do it yourself) project and a great value for the price. It is available only in kit form. Performance has been very good once I got every detail sorted. It produces very good prints and is fast.

One desirable feature it lacks is a heated bed. The controller (Arduino) has the necessary connections for controlling the heated bed. I ordered the hot plate when I purchased the printer kit. The delivery of the plate is another whole story of its own. I ended up with two of them, paying for one. I will send one back if manufacturer will pay or the shipping. I doubt they will see the value in that…

Read more: Kossel Heated Bed

The accuracy of the Delta printer is very good. It prints with far less “ringing” than my Cartesian printer. Very impressive smoothness of the outer printed shell. The Delta prints much faster than the Cartesian. I have mentioned that before. It’s all about the mass and inertia thing. Less weight moving means faster and smoother printing.

On my Delta, the print surface is 200mm in diameter. The printing area is claimed in writing to be 180mm diameter. That’s 10mm short of the outside edge. The measured maximum round printing area is only 140mm when built following the kit instructions. There is a design problem with the Delta I own.

Read more: Delta Construction Error

The Author

Ramblin' Dan Kautz

dankautzThere is no doubt one of my hobbies is writing about my hobbies. I read somewhere a long time ago, the best things to write about are the things you know very well. I have been writing and publishing long before the personal computer became the tool of choice.  My first printed and published club newsletter was created in the late 60's.

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Our Mission

The intention of this web site and “Ramblin’ Dan’s 3D Print Design Studio” is to promote creative design thinking and demonstrate how ideas can be changed to tangible creations through the proper application and use of Three-Dimensional Printing systems.

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