Let the filament spool hang off-center on the small spool axle or center rod.
One of the first things I made with my first 3D printer was filament spool center inserts. These adapt the large center hole to the threaded rod that was included with the acrylic spool holder stand supplied with the printer. It seemed to make sense at the time and a good first project.
I assumed everyone used them.
I have been suffering with changing and handling those adapters through about a dozen 1kg spools of filament and scores of changes between colors. But I have seen the light. The holes in the newer spools have increased in size rather than gotten smaller. There is a reason for that.
With a perfect centered spool, the printer can give a tug on the filament that can cause the nicely balanced and free to spin spool, a chance to unroll far too much filament. It is especially a problem near the end of a roll when there are a lot of tight loops in the filament and it springs out over the side around the axel rod.
The big hole in the spool is so the spool can intentionally hang off center and be heavy at the bottom. It causes more drag while spooling off the reel and it can never free-wheel. There is always a slight tension on the filament. It also prevents the chance of a rewind tangle caused by the attendant (you).
My free-wheeling days are over…
I have read reviews on 3D printer filament where the reviewer bashes the product because the filament on the spool is tangled “from the factory”. This is misleading as the tangle is certainly 99.9% the result of user error in handling and feeding the filament. If cross under tangles could be produced (they cannot) by continuous winding, then fishing spinning reels would never work. Neither would sewing thread, lifting cranes or any process using winding on a spool. There must be severe backlash during the winding such as occurs with open reel bait casting when the reel spins faster than the line feed and the line wraps backwards on the faster turning spool.. This “backlash” is not what is reported.
Manufacturers could never create backlash in production runs. The reel is pulling, not feeding.
The likely problem is the end of the filament could “get lost” by the user on the spool and the end was “fished out” from many loose or slack turns on the spool. It is very easy to create cross under with loose windings. The last 0.1% chance is the manufacturer doing this. But not many times deep within the windings.
This error is very difficult to observe and in fact the filament will feed normally for possibly many hours if the loops remain slack (as they do) on the spool. This time delay will disassociate the user with the cause. It appears the cross under was “buried” under layers in the spool. This is not possible in manufacturing.
Tip #2 is to pay very close attention if the end of the filament snaps back into windings on the spool during handling. Check very closely for a cross under tangle when retrieving the end. Always keep the free end of the filament secure to the edge of the spools in the holes or use a clip.
Let the nozzle cool down when not printing.
ABS and PLA plastic and probably most other filaments that I have not yet used will cook off and bake into a hard crust if held at printing temperature for too long. You can clearly see this on the outside of the nozzle. It’s not as serious inside the nozzle but it will eventually cook off just the same. This is one cause of nozzle plugging.
I have printing software that lets me hold the temperature of the bed and nozzle between print jobs. (Simplify3D) This is OK for a quick restart when immediately starting a new print job. Wandering off (for lunch) and leaving the heat set on the nozzle will one, drain (ooze) plastic out of the nozzle and the entering air will oxidize and cook off the plastic, plugging the nozzle.
The odor from the heated plastic is the volitile components cooking off. When they are gone what is left is mostly ash.
Time spent reheating the cool nozzle is better spent than changing out a plugged nozzle.
This is the basis of Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) 3D printing. It is the one major variable that must be completely understood. I have been through at least 20 spools of both ABS and PLA. There are more than a dozen other blends of filament. I haven’t “mastered” these first two yet.
The situation is there is variation in the product of even the same color, material and manufacturer. Every new role is a new experience in getting all the “tweeks” correct. Temperature and extrusion rate are the most critical.
I am currently running some black ABS that measures average 1.70 mm (undersize 0.05 mm) yet I have had to decrease flow to .85 (85%) to prevent balling and tear-out due to excess flow.
The tip and lesson learned is to not get too excited about “favorite settings” there is no constant magic number that is correct for every roll of filament. Run a couple of flat infills to test a new roll. I print a shallow box about 25mm x 50mm. It gives me at flat area to check infill and base adhesion and some sidewall to check layer bonding. I make “tweeks” until I get a good box then I go on to the real project.
My rolls are usually (all so far) consistent as a single unit but there is vast difference between rolls of exactly the same color and brand. It’s not all just the material. There are so many variables to FFF that the user must learn from experience to recognize any issue and make appropriate corrections.
Bad product can exist but I am certain most issues are user correctable and many are user caused.
Experiment with settings. See what happens with over and under feed. Move temperature and observe the results. Vary speeds. Be scientific, do one at a time.
Don’t worry about the cost of material for testing. It is insignificant to spoiling a major build. (shown)
A Good Clean Nozzle is Critical
A nozzle does not have to be plugged to be “bad”. Nozzle flow can appear to be normal but in fact the tip could be partially plugged. For me, changing a nozzle is one of the last things I want to do. However, in many cases I have discovered it should have been the first thing!
The first clue is that shells don’t bind together on their sides and infills are sparse and stringy. Adhesion problems with the first layer is also a good indicator. These problems often appear when nothing as far as flow settings have been changed and the printing has been problem free for quite some time.
Many newbies want to blame the filament. In my experience that is really the LAST thing that can be causing the problems just described. The diameter can be measured and flow rates tweaked. Most cases the filament may be a bit undersize. If the adjustment doesn’t change the low flow issue then it is a sure indication it is the nozzle.
The 0.04” nozzle may be acting like it has a 0.03” or even a 0.02” hole. This equivalent bore is likely to be a bit askew. If the flow test done well above the surface is not a straight down flow but tends to spin or do other weird flows, then for sure the nozzle needs changed.
A nozzle drag across a print bed or across a previously printed portion can be the cause. I find the outside appearance of the nozzle is a good clue. All nozzles eventually get a bit “crusty” looking after long use. It may be some of the visual debris that gets too close to the nozzle hole.
Why it happens is not too important unless it starts happening extremely often. Bad looking nozzle and defective printing means change out the nozzle.
Spare nozzles are reasonably cheap. Keep a half dozen on hand. Order more when you get down to one. Drilling them out doesn’t seem worth the effort to me. The nozzle is a critical precision flow device. A burr or an incorrect angle can only cause more grief getting a good print.
Nozzles should always be changed when they are HOT, at printing temperature. That’s the reason I dislike changing them. My fingers are not heat proof…